Weight Distribution Hitch Guide - Setup, Adjustment and Brands

Without a weight distribution hitch, your trailer’s tongue weight pushes down on the truck’s rear axle. The rear squats, the front lifts, headlights point skyward and steering gets vague. That’s dangerous at highway speed.

A WDH spreads that tongue weight across all axles — truck and trailer — for level, controlled towing.

How It Works

Spring bars (or chains, depending on design) connect the hitch head to brackets on the trailer frame. When tensioned, they apply upward force on the truck’s rear and downward force on the truck’s front axle.

The result: the truck sits level instead of nose-up. Weight transfers to the front axle restoring steering control. The trailer axles share more of the load too.

When You Need One

• Trailer weighs more than 50% of truck weight
• Truck rear sags noticeably when hitched
• Steering feels light or wandering while towing
• Headlights point too high when towing
• Your truck manufacturer requires one (check the owner’s manual)

Most half-ton trucks towing anything over 5,000 lbs need a WDH. Three-quarter and one-ton trucks can often tow without one, but it still improves ride quality.

Types of WDH

Round Bar

Traditional design with round spring bars. Time-tested and widely available. Requires a separate sway control device.

Brands: Reese, Husky, Curt

Trunnion Bar

Square spring bars that mount to trunnion brackets on the hitch head. Same function as round bar, slightly different geometry. Also needs separate sway control.

Brands: Reese, Fastway

Integrated Sway Control

Combines weight distribution and sway control in one unit. Friction or cam mechanisms resist trailer sway without add-on devices.

Top picks:

• Blue Ox SwayPro — clamp-on friction sway control, easy hookup
• Equal-i-zer — 4-point sway control with integrated design
• Husky Center Line TS — trunnion bars with sway control

Chain-Style

Andersen No-Sway uses chains instead of spring bars. Lighter, easier to hook up and provides sway control. More expensive but popular for its simplicity.

Setup Process

1. Measure Unhitched Heights

With the truck on level ground and loaded as you’d travel (passengers, gear), measure:

• Front bumper height from ground
• Rear bumper height from ground
• Trailer coupler height from ground

Write these down. You’ll reference them after setup.

2. Set Ball Height

Adjust the hitch shank so the ball height matches your trailer coupler height. The trailer should sit level when coupled.

3. Couple the Trailer

Lower the trailer onto the ball. Raise the tongue jack until the trailer is level. Don’t engage the spring bars yet.

4. Measure Hitched Heights (No WDH)

Check front and rear bumper heights again. The rear will be lower and the front higher than unhitched. Note the difference.

5. Engage Spring Bars

Lift the spring bars into the trailer brackets. Apply tension using the adjustment bolts or chain links.

6. Measure Again

Front and rear should now be within 1/2 inch of unhitched measurements. If the front is still high, add tension (move up a chain link or tighten the bolt). If the front is low, reduce tension.

7. Road Test

Drive at highway speed. The truck should track straight without the rear swaying or the steering feeling loose. Make small adjustments as needed.

Common Mistakes

Too much tension makes the ride harsh and can overload the trailer axles. The truck and trailer should ride level, not nose-down.

Too little tension doesn’t distribute enough weight. The truck still sags in the rear.

Not adjusting for load changes. A fully loaded trailer needs different spring bar tension than an empty one. Re-adjust when your cargo weight changes significantly.

Forgetting to disengage before backing into tight turns. Some WDH designs bind when turning sharply. Disengage spring bars before jackknifing into a campsite.

Related Articles

• Travel Trailer Weight Chart
• Tongue Weight Explained
• How to Level a Travel Trailer